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Northern Namibia’s Kaokoland feels like one of the most remote and harsh
regions in Africa, yet it is one of those places where the phrase ‘savage
beauty’ seems particularly apt.
Once, perhaps a billion years ago, mountains like the Himalayas stood above Kaokoland, pushed
up as Africa was formed from colliding tectonic plates. The layers of sedimentary rocks that
came first were turned vertical, twisted like tagliatelle in places, producing a landscape of jagged
razor sharp ridges, hills and mountain. Eons of ferocious beatings from the elements have given
this impossibly ancient landscape some of the most staggering vistas I have ever seen.
The summer heat is remorseless and such flat surfaces as exist are coated with sand to a
greater or lesser extent. But, there is life here, plenty of it, and much of it adapted over the years
to live in a tough place. A series of ephemeral rivers flow west to the sea and, in a few secret
places, water can be found on the surface a year and more after the last rain fell far inland.
People, elephant, rhino, giraffe, zebra, lion, cheetah, leopard, aardvark, honey badger, porcupine,
jackal, spotted and brown hyena, ostrich, oryx, klipspringer, steenbok and springbok have all
worked out how to live here, to survive against the odds and cope with climatic adversity.
It’s a land of weird plants too, some of which are highly toxic to us and most wildlife, and others
whose sole source of water is the sea fog. There are some that look like cactus, or succulents
The Skeleton Coast and
Kaokoland in a nutshell: How
to see it and where to stay
Skeleton Coast Flying Safari:
quite simply one of the best African mobile
safaris there is. Spend three days delving
deep into the territory in the company
of one of the Schoeman brothers;
pilot-guides extraordinaire.
Serra Cafema Camp:
One of southern
Africa’s most far-flung camps. Set on the
Kunene River where the winding band
of green that supports good wildlife is
surrounded by lunar-like desert landscape.
Explore by boat, on foot or quadbike.
Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp:
Few ever reach this isolated wilderness
but it is well worth a visit. The luxury camp
offers access into rugged mountains, vast
plains, dry riverbeds and the mysterious
fresh water oases of the Hoanib
floodplains. There are decent populations
of desert-adapted elephant, and sightings
of oryx, giraffe and springbok.
Bang for your buck:
Go now and take
advantage of the weak Namibian dollar.
Include this extraordinary region as part
of a wider Namibian itinerary and you’ll
find this lovely safari destination offers
superb value as well as a magical holiday.
REPORT BY FRANCIS
that resemble trees. Then there is the
occasional brief eruption of colour as flower
filled plains burst into life after rare rainfall.
Flanked on its western edge by the Atlantic
Ocean, Kaokoland’s ‘Skeleton Coast’ – so
named because of the many shipwrecks here
– is rich in life, with huge colonies of Cape
fur seals, as well as numerous seabirds and
waders such as flamingos.
In short it is a mix of extraordinary geology,
immense landscapes, a chilly ocean, intense
heat, determined and resilient people,
magnificent wildlife and some of Africa’s
most spectacular landscapes.
Safari in untouched Africa
Read more about Francis’ trip at bit.ly/myNamibiatop10
