Drumbeat Winter 18

Southern Tanzania Superb wildlife viewing in glorious isolation Imagine if you can a wilderness the size of Scotland, drained by two iconic rivers but without permanent roads or settlements. The Selous Game Reserve and Ruaha National Park fit this description, and are home to some of Africa’s greatest remaining populations of wildlife. Surprisingly little visited, they are absolute treasures of Africa’s rich natural history. Because both reserves are so vast, the wildlife is occasionally elusive, but the rewards are spectacular when you find it. Just 80 miles from Tanzania’s coast and close to sea level, Selous is a warm and humid place year round, and usually stays green near its lakes and waterways when other reserves have dried up. The vegetation is jungle-like in places, and oh my goodness it’s beautiful, such a lovely contrast to the parched and arid savannah found elsewhere across Africa. Much of the reserve is inaccessible, but with a good guide and a Land Rover you can find places that nobody else knows of. Selous is excellent for walking safaris and overnight fly-camping too. Boat trips on the lakes and river channels are unique to Selous in East Africa, and since the river is home to tiger fish, you can have a go at fishing too. The contrast and comparison with Ruaha is stark and exciting. More than 3,000 feet above sea level and more than 220 miles inland, Ruaha is a much more arid part of Africa, dependent on the seasonal rains. The course of the Great Ruaha River, and the big escarpment that runs parallel, are the major topographical features here. Between the two are a series of seasonal ‘sand’ rivers, in which water flows below the surface when all else is dry. Elephants know about the water, and the holes they dig in the sand are vital for the other species which lack their strength. Ruaha has a great density of wildlife, and because of the daily quest to find water it is easier to see along the course of the rivers. There are some wonderful opportunities for walking here, with an ascent of the escarpment itself providing stunning scenery and real adventure, truly remote and isolated. Forests of baobabs, and palm trees lining the river banks make this an especially beautiful park. I particularly enjoyed seeing the number of Southern African trees that live here too – it’s a truly fascinating transition zone between the East and Southern Africa biomes for plants as well as mammals and birds, and as a result Ruaha boasts the greatest diversity of any reserve in East Africa. Seeing wildlife in complete privacy is a special privilege, and this magnificent chunk of Tanzania is perfect for it. The range of activities on offer here makes it so much more than a typical wildlife destination, and turns it into a matchless wilderness experience. REPORT BY FRANCIS Fact Box Selous and or Ruaha combine well with the more famous Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater to give a wonderfully diverse safari. Add a few nights on Zanzibar or nearby islands for the ultimate safari and beach holiday. Our favourite Ruaha camps Mdonya – traditional tented camp offering an authentic safari experience Kwihala – a simple authentic tented safari camp with a fabulous wild location in a riverine forest Kigelia – intimate, comfortable tented camp in a superb wildlife area Ikuka – exclusive, owner run with fabulous views over the park Our favourite Selous camps Lake Manze – on the Lake Manze shoreline, one of the richest wildlife areas in the entire Selous Sand Rivers Selous – quintessential safari camp with open fronted rooms and stunning river views Siwandu – just the right amount of luxury in a prime wildlife spot Beho Beho – the original Selous camp, exquisite in a wonderfully remote location www . aardvarksafaris.co.uk l P14