Drumbeat Winter 20

14 15 | www.aardvarksafaris.com www.aardvarksafaris.com | Report by Lucinda T anzania’s far flung western national parks Katavi and Mahale feature regularly when any of us is asked ‘what’s next on your wish list?’ Until last October they’d topped mine. And, wow, they should be at the top of everyone’s bucket list. Pair the two and you’ve got a superb combination of incredible wildlife encounters, an extraordinary pristine wilderness, fabulous guides, and activities ranging from walking safaris to chimp tracking. An extraordinary three days at Katavi began after only 15 minutes when, on foot, we came upon lions on a kill. Among the highlights that followed were watching aestivating (best described as reptilian hibernation) crocodiles from just feet away, grazing giraffe - they’re actually browsing the small trees but have to stretch their front legs apart which gives the unusual impression they’re grazing, hundreds of elephant joining us on a bush breakfast, hippos galore, extraordinary birds and mating lions. At just over one million acres Katavi is pretty much a private playground with only three safari camps in its entirety. At beautiful Chada Katavi Camp I shared my bucket showers with monkeys whowait for leftover water (or anything else they can get their hands on) and enjoyed camp fire evenings, a chilled drink in hand, to marvel at the day’s events. A short but breathtakingly beautiful flight whisked me to Lake Tanganyika where, decanting from plane to boat only heightened the sense of adventure. Rounding the bay and glimpsing Greystoke Mahale, nestled at the foot of the Mahale Mountains, for the first time is indescribable. KATAVI AND MAHALE THE ULT I MAT E WI LDL I F E E S CAP E Chimp tracking is the main event at this exquisite lodge and although I’ve seen them elsewhere, the encounters here were out of this world. The guides know the chimps as individuals here and understanding the behavioural traits of each gave so much more of an insight to the experience. I saw chimps foraging, grooming, arguing, playing, and a tiny two week old baby with its mother. The interactions between these intelligent animals are fascinating. One morning’s track unfolded into a real drama as two males tussled for superiority. Alliances were made and broken, the fighting was ferociously noisy with the chimps moving at speed through the canopy. After our hour we left them to it but not before we laughed at a youngster auditioning for the most theatrical response to a telling off – unbelievably comical. Adrenaline filled mornings with the chimps were followed relaxing at the supremely comfortable lodge or taking boat trips and swimming in Lake Tanganyika. Closing each day in this beautiful paradise, watching the sun set with a cold G&T, is my idea of utter perfection. Seven days split between these two magical spots, surrounded by wild Africa in its truest form is a real treat. It may be off my bucket list, but it’s gone straight to the top of my ‘where would you like to return to’ list!